Common Sewing Issues

Sewing machines are a wonderful piece of technology, but if you suffer problems with skipped stitches, bunching of the thread, breaking thread etc. they can be confusing and frustrating to say the least.

The essential point to remember is not to panic. The vast majority of issues have simple causes and their solutions can be worked out with a little care and thought, without the need for specialist technical knowledge.

Because problems can have multiple causes, it isn’t practical for anyone else to sort them out remotely. It is always something users have to sort out themselves by working through the possible causes in a logical way.

To aid you in this please see the following suggestions :

NEEDLE

It is often estimated that around a 1/4 of all machines taken to technicians for repair are fixed by just changing the needle. It is amazing how often people manage to insert needles the wrong way around, even if they have previously been doing it without problems for years. Check your user’s manual to confirm how the needle should be inserted.

The quality of needles is also a very significant issue. The needle has a critical role in the proper forming of stitches. Cheap generic needles are more trouble than they are worth. They are a false economy which can be responsible for all sorts of issues that disappear once they are changed for a good quality needle. We recommend only using needles made by Schmetz or Organ.

Needles do deteriorate with use and they are not expensive, so the first step in resolving issues should always be to fit a ‘new’ needle of the correct type and size from a good manufacturer. Provided it is fitted in the correct orientation, this action will quickly eliminate a major potential cause of problems.

BOBBIN & THREAD

Always ensure you are using only the correct type of bobbin for your machine. It is amazing how many machines we see that have the wrong bobbin type (or even a mixture of bobbin types !!). Unfortunately most haberdashers, and even many sewing machine shops, seem unaware of the correct bobbins for different models, so they will frequently sell people the wrong bobbins. That some machines will still work at all with the wrong bobbin is amazing, but that they don’t work correctly like this should not be a surprise.

To work correctly, the outer surfaces of bobbins must be smooth, so the thread runs over them without snagging. Don’t use metal bobbins with corrosion or roughness, or plastic bobbins that have damage such as nicks, cracks, or wear on the edges.

The quality of thread is also a very significant factor. Just as with generic needles, cheap generic threads cause more trouble than they are worth. We suggest only using good quality threads as made by Guttermann, Drima or Coates. Cheap multi-pack threads as sold in supermarkets and market stalls etc. should be avoided, as should very old threads.

After changing the needle, the second step in resolving issues should be to wind a new bobbin with a ‘good quality thread’.

Always start with an empty bobbin, do NOT be tempted to wind one thread over another on a partly filled bobbin. Never mix different threads on the bobbin and on the spool. Ensure that the bobbin has been wound evenly across and in level layers.

THREADING

Each machine has a proper threading sequence. Even one minor variation or missed step can cause serious issues. If you are not sure, then check your user’s manual and then remove the top thread and start again.

TENSION

In the main, the thread tensions are the only user adjustable factor that controls the stitch formation. In most circumstances if the bottom (bobbin) tension is has been set correctly, then all of the adjustment can be done with the top (spool) tension.

The bottom tension should not normally require attention unless debris has collected under the spring causing it not to work correctly, or unless you are using specialist threads. In those cases you should refer to your user’s manual.

ZIGZAG MODELS

Whilst a zigzag feature is very useful, it can frequently cause issues when trying to use straight stitch on such models. i.e. bunching of thread under the throat plate, or skipped stitches etc.

Zigzag machines are inevitably a compromise with regard to machine timing and to supporting the fabric around the needle hole. Over time manufacturers have pushed the boundaries of these compromises in order to achieve wider and wider zigzags.

A zigzag machine requires an elongated hole in the throat plate, so that the needle can move from side to side. When using straight stitch with the needle in its central position, the fabric is unsupported at the sides, so thinner fabrics can be dragged down into the slot, upsetting the stitch. This is particularly a problem with models having a wider zigzag.

The solution to this is to use a special throat plate for straight stitch, which just has a round needle hole. Many machines include this with the basic set of attachments, but others require it to be purchased separately as an optional 'extra'.

On some models it is possible to set the straight stitch to one side, rather than in the middel position. This can also help.